Where to Escape the Crowds for a Day in Barcelona

Originally published in Eater.

Barcelona is truly one of the world’s most magnificent cities, but — as with most popular European destinations — that magnificence draws a crushing crowd of tourists, especially in summer. In June 2021, the Barcelona port reopened to cruise ships, which pre-pandemic dumped a monthly average of 400,000 people ashore, while any resident sun-seekers who don’t split town on vacation continue to head to the beach in droves. At its peak in 2019, more than 87 million tourists hit Spain — 23 percent of those visited Catalunya, and a full 12 million flocked to the streets of Barcelona. That number crashed during 2020, but travelers are now making up for lost time.

Conscientious travelers, and those seeking a little more breathing room, can mitigate the crush and expand their horizons by getting out of the center, which has the added benefit of revealing the less-crowded joys of greater Barcelona. Even within the city limits, there are under-visited neighborhoods that offer charm without chaos — or head into other parts of Catalunya for fresh air, winery tours, and beaches where you’re more likely to actually nab a spot (though with domestic travel up due to the pandemic, these local destinations are seeing more action than usual). No need for a car; all of these destinations are easily reached in under an hour — as little as 10 minutes — using the metro, the bus, or Renfe, the Spanish train network.

For a hip (nearby) haven: Gràcia

Gràcia, just two metro stops from Plaça de Catalunya, is known for its quiet streets and plazas, bustling restaurant scene, markets, and boutiques. Residents love the family-friendly hippie vibe, and visitors bask in the quiet of its narrow pedestrian-friendly streets. Head to Bar But for a small but reliable menu of Catalan dishes. For drinks, grab a terrace seat and a local Moritz beer for some people-watching on the Plaça de la Virreina. Or, drink natural wine at the popular Bar Salvatge. In mid-August, narrow streets are transformed with decorations for the week-long Festa Major de Gràcia, which are made mostly from recycled materials: Papier-mache dinosaurs loom two stories tall, and plastic-bottle jellyfish wiggle overhead. How to get there: 10 minutes from Plaça de Catalunya on the L3 line to the Fontana stop.

For a green escape: Horta

Take a trip to the countryside without leaving the city at Can Cortada for a traditional Catalan meal of pa amb tomàquet (pan con tomate), grilled lamb chops, and roasted vegetables. “Can” roughly translates to farmhouse in Catalan, and Can Cortada, with its green lawn, fuchsia bougainvillea, stone exterior, and rustic decor, is indeed a farmhouse in the urban bustle of Horta, a neighborhood on the fringes of Barcelona. During calçot season (January to March), there’s a special menu dedicated to these seasonal spring onions, which look like skinny leeks and are dragged through smoky romesco sauce. From there, it’s a 15-minute walk to Parc del Laberint d’Horta, where you’ll find gardens, a labyrinth, and a pond set in a Neoclassical pavilion. How to get there: 20 minutes from Plaça de Catalunya on the L3 line to the Valldaura metro.

For chic streets and eats: Sarrià

With its charming side streets, colorful houses, and quaint passageways, Sarrià’s main drag, Carrer Major de Sarrià, comes alive in the afternoons when the kids get back from school. Neighborhood cultural center Casa Orlandai was built in 1891, and boasts a pretty cafe with stained glass and original ceramic tiles. Nearby, bakery Foix de Sarrià has been going strong for over 125 years, while neighboring El Tomás de Sarrià has some of the best patatas bravas in the city, fried crisp and served under a dollop of garlicky allioli and spicy bravas sauce. Or, grab a cocktail in boho-chic Bar Treze, whose calming interior calls to mind the cool island breezes of the Balearics. Plaça de Sant Vicenç is a good place to rest your feet, or wander the nearly hidden ivy-laden Passatge de Mallofré. How to get there: 20 minutes on the L6 train from Plaça de Catalunya to the Sarrià or Reina Elisenda stop.

For great art and greater views: Montjuïc

Rising up above the southern edge of the city, Montjuïc — probably named for the Jewish cemetery found here — holds many charms, including Montjuïc Castle, the Fundació Joan Miró museum, and the lush Jardins de Mossèn Cinto Verdaguer. The Piscina Municipal (public swimming pool) was built for the 1992 Olympics and offers a stunning panorama of the city. On your way down the mountain, stop into Casa Xica for Catalan-Asian fusion or tapas at El Sortidor de la Filomena Pagès, whose pretty stained glass windows beckon passersby in for a cozy tapas menu. How to get there: Under 20 minutes by No. 150 bus from Plaça de Espanya or by funicular from metro Paral·lel; a cable car from Barceloneta takes under 10 minutes and offers great views, but be prepared to wait to board in summer.

For wine on a micro-scale: Alella

About 10 miles outside of Barcelona, the quaint, seaside Alella wine region was the summer playground of city elites until the end of the 19th century; the 1980s housing boom left only eight wineries here. Today, the wine remains excellent, but the majority of Catalan wineries lack tasting rooms, so be sure to book tours ahead. Alella is best known for its native pansa blanca grape, which makes for light-bodied, aromatic whites. Renowned Alta Alella Mirgin offers outstanding wines and stunning views of the coastline and Barcelona; Bouquet d’Alella offers tours, tastings, and special calçotada meals over January to March. After a tasting, stroll through town to admire the beautiful villas and grab some tapas at the locals’ favorite bar, Companyia d’Alella. How to get there: About 30 minutes by train from Barcelona Sants station to El Masnou. A short walk south (keeping the water on your left) will bring you to the bus stop and from there, the 690 bus will drop you right in town. Connections to the wineries can be made by taxi or another 10-to-20-minute walk from the town center. There are two direct buses (e19 or 644) that run from Plaça d’Urquinaona in Barcelona to the center of Alella. By taxi, the wineries are a 20-minute drive from Barcelona.

For all things cava: Sant Sadurní d’Anoia

Sant Sadurní d’Anoia is the birthplace of cava, boasting more than 80 wineries and miles of underground cellars where cava has been produced since 1872. Top names like Recaredo are just a short walk from the train station. Stop into Simón Coll for some chocolate, or take their tour, which runs in English twice daily weekdays and once daily on weekends. Try La Cava d’en Sergi for elevated Catalan cuisine, which features dishes like duck confit with apple chutney and port wine sauce. It’s essential to book wine tours ahead of time; restaurant reservations are generally good to have, especially on weekends in high season. How to get there: 1 hour by R4 Rodalies train from Plaça de Catalunya station to Sant Sadurní d’Anoia (direction Vilafranca del Penedès). From the station it’s a short walk into the center.

For a chill beach day: Garraf Beach

In high season, finding a place to lay your towel along the Catalan coastline is a real challenge. Tiny Garraf Beach is a good bet. Head to the sand in the late afternoon, after the heat has begun to subside. The beach is high on charm, with a row of jaunty green-and-white fishermen’s houses facing the sea. Then, take in the sunset at Chiringuito de Garraf, which offers simply presented Spanish tapas, like grilled sardines and steamed mussels, and seafood paellas. Grab a mojito at Gurugú Iguana before hopping back on the train. How to get there: 45 minutes from Barcelona Sants station on the R2S Rodalies train to Garraf station.

Understanding the Spanish Dining Timetable

Originally published in Eater

With seven distinct meals in a day, here’s when to eat everything in Barcelona

People have always come to Barcelona with grand ambitions. Now that visitors are slowly ebbing back into the city, they want to see all the sights, absorb all the culture, and of course dive deep into the city’s famous cuisine, bouncing effortlessly between vermouth bar and paella specialist without missing a beat. But too often, travelers end up losing out on some of Barcelona’s best eating thanks to the intricacies of the Spanish timetable, where meals likely happen at a different hour than many foreigners (Americans, anyway) are used to. Try to eat lunch too early — say, noon — and you’ll be searching fruitlessly for something other than a bocadillo, a single slice of jamón on baguette. Get caught hungry before the restaurants open for dinner around 9 and you’ll find yourself emptying your wallet for snacks and abandoning crucial stomach space. The rules are just different here — traditionally there are six distinct meals, for one — and adapting faster means eating better. Noshing like a local is a delicate dance, so here’s a quick guide to help you make sure you don’t miss a meal.

A tapas bar in Barcelona.

The Timeline

7 - 9 a.m.

Desdejuni / Desayuno (Breakfast)

The workday in Spain generally begins at 9 a.m., so breakfast at home falls some time before that. With the 10 a.m. almuerzo on the horizon, many Spaniards skip this step altogether, but those who eat at home might indulge in a slice of bread with olive oil and tomato, a few slices of jamón, or some fruit.

10 - 11 a.m.

l’Esmorzar / Almuerzo (Mid-Morning Snack)

Almuerzo is an indispensable part of the local diet. It’s built into school schedules, and for many adults it’s the first meal of the day. It’s mostly designed to stave off hunger until a typically heavy three-course lunch, so most tuck into a simple sandwich, a slice of quiche-like tortilla made with egg and potatoes or other veggies, or just a croissant and a coffee.

12 - 2 p.m.

La Hora del Vermut (Vermut Hour)

At noon on weekends, bars are crowded with friends and families having a drink — often vermouth, sometimes not — and chatting over small bites like canned cockles, ensaladilla rusa (a potato salad), and anchovy-stuffed olives. It’s an essential ritual, and a good way to get an early meal in if you can’t wait for the traditional lunch hour. And if fortified wine at noon sounds like a bit much, you can also order it after dark.

Patrons gather outside a vermuteria in Barcelona.

Vermut and assorted snacks at Morro Fi.

2 - 3:30 p.m.

El Dinar/La Comida (Lunch)

La comida is the main event of the day, and is not to be missed. It’s typically three filling courses, including a starter, a main plate, and either dessert or coffee. During the week many places serve a menú del día, a fixed-price lunch special offering a few choices for each course. With the influx of foreign companies to the city and the economic impulse to catch up with Northern European productivity standards, this meal is becoming less important. Old habits die hard, though, and while some stay near the office and have a quick bite, many still sit for a menú at midday.

5:30 - 7:30 p.m.

El Berenar/La Merienda (Mid-Afternoon Snack)

Merienda is typically when children head home from school with a croissant or foil-wrapped entrepà (sandwich) in one hand and a Cacaolat (Barcelona’s favorite brand of chocolate milk) in the other — something to tide them over until dinner, still hours away. While kids’ merienda is portable, you can take a seat and enjoy yours with an afternoon coffee, even if it’s descafeinado (decaf). Just don’t order a cafe con leche this late in the day.

Pre-dinner drinks in Gràcia.

8:30 - 10 p.m.

La Hora del Aperitiu/La Hora del Aperitivo (Pre-Dinner Drinks)

When people get off work, aperitivo hour begins. In Barcelona, this is less a ritualistic meal than it is in Madrid, and more an excuse to meet a friend for a beer and some snacks like pimientos de padrón, tiny Catalan arbequina olives, and marinated sardines while you’re figuring out what to do for dinner.

9 - 11 p.m.

El Sopar/La Cena (Dinner)

When eaten at home, this meal can be very light, sometimes even just a plate of steamed vegetables with olive oil or a bowl of yogurt and some fruit. That said, Barcelona’s restaurants are getting back to being packed, especially in the summer, and the food can range from classic Catalan feasts to ramen to chicken wings.

So You Screwed Up?

Here are eight great all-day restaurants for when your timing’s off 

As Barcelona turned into a popular travel destination, cafes and restaurants recognized the tourist’s dilemma and began serving food all day long. If you’re still struggling to acclimate to the schedule, here’s a list of fail-safes. 

Robot House Barcelona

Billed as a creative space for social good, Robot House focuses on specialty coffee and farm-to-table bowls, plus craft beer and natural wine, but they also have a small bookshop and host regular talks. Carrer de Provença 316, 08037; Monday - Friday 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.; closed weekends.

Bar But

This small, unpretentious tapas bar offers unconventional selections like octopus bao and confit leeks with papada and hollandaise. The menú del día is a great deal if you can snag a seat. Carrer de Bonavista 8, 08012; Monday - Friday 9 a.m. to midnight; Saturday 10 a.m. to midnight; closed Sunday.

El Nacional

Although it’s become quite popular, and therefore occasionally crowded, since it opened, this converted factory is worth a visit for the stunning renovation alone. That said, there are four well-executed restaurants inside, popular with locals and tourists alike. Diners can choose from a seafood spot, a tapas bar, a steakhouse, and a Spanish delicatessen offering light meals. Passeig de Gràcia 24 Bis, 08007; 12 p.m. to 1 a.m. daily.

Bar Central

This hidden spot inside La Central bookshop is worth seeking out. The cafe opens out onto a gorgeous plant-filled garden terrace where you can have a light lunch and a vermouth or a scoop of ice cream on a hot day. Carrer d’Elisabets 6, 08001; no website; Sundays 12 p.m to 8 p.m.; Monday - Thursday 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 10:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.

Bar Veraz

Bar Veraz is inside the swanky Barcelona Edition hotel. Not only does the menu have a good blend of tapas, brunch plates like shakshuka, and pizza topped with burrata and black truffles, but they also offer a rare all-day brunch on weekends. Avinguda Francesc Cambó 14, 08003; 7:30 a.m. to 12 a.m. daily.

Ancestral Bar

This small bar has a thoughtfully curated wine list, organic sangria, craft beers and vermouths, and classic tapas like moixama (cured tuna and marcona almonds), croquetes with sobrasada and honey, or bunyols (salt cod fritters). Carrer de Provença 340, 08037; Monday - Friday 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.; closed weekends.

Flax & Kale

This mostly vegetarian restaurant focuses on creative combinations like squash blossoms with cashew cream, pico de gallo, and goji berries. Their homemade juices are delicious. The Raval location has a rooftop terrace open in the summer months. Carrer dels Tallers 74b, 08001; Monday - Friday 12 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. 

Babula Bar 1937

Babula Bar offers a menu marrying international foods like grilled octopus with chimichurri and Japanese-inspired steak tartare. The space has a cozy cocktail bar vibe where you can seek a quiet moment amid the bustle of Barcelona life. Carrer de Pau Claris 139, 08009; Monday - Tuesday 5 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.; Wednesday - Sunday 1 p.m. to 1 a.m. 

The Fussy Tourist's Guide to Fancy Ham in Barcelona

Originally published in Eater

Spain is jamón. Jamón is Spain. It is hard to separate the significance of aged pig legs from the Spanish culture — and particularly within Catalunya. In Barcelona, where indulging in a paper-thin slice of dry-aged Spanish ham is a rite of passage for meat-eating visitors, it’s hard to find a traditional restaurant or bar without at least one glistening leg displayed on an elegant wooden jamonero (ham holder) — or even hanging from the ceiling.

All of which is to say that if meat is your thing, you should absolutely eat jamón at some point during your visit to Barcelona; you might even be tempted to smuggle some back in your suitcase. But not all jamón is created equal: Since the 1980s, Spanish ham has been strictly graded by the government, with a system of colored packaging labels that indicate its quality level based on the pig’s heritage and diet; a separate label denotes how long the meat was cured for. Here’s how to decipher the taxonomy of jamón (or “pernil,” in Catalan, which will inevitably be used on menus in Barcelona).

All ham is not created equal

There are several prevalent types of jamón you’ll likely encounter in Barcelona:

Jamón ibérico, which can only be made from Iberian pigs, is the finest jamón money can buy, renowned for the marbling of its flesh. Within this category are three levels, which split into four total labels:

Jamón is recognizable for the white ribbons of fat that run through it.

Jamón ibérico de bellota is the best of the best, known for white ribbons of fat running in between its deep-red meat. Some people will drop 1,500 euros ($1,700) for a leg, because it’s just that good. Its quality is further distinguished by black and red grades:

• Black-label ibérico pigs spend the fall and winter months roaming the dehesa oak forests of southwest Spain feasting on bellotas (acorns), herbs, and wild plants, which give their meat a complexity of aromas, including its signature sweet, nutty tones. They’re bred from 100 percent Iberian pata negra pigs with signature black hooves.

• Red-label ibérico pigs have the same wild diet as black-label pigs but are 75 percent Iberian and 25 percent Duroc, a white-footed pig breed that originates from the U.S.

Jamón ibérico cebo de campo, which sports a green label, comes from pigs that have been partly pastured on acorns and grass but their diet is supplemented with grain. They can be 75 percent Iberian, 25 percent Duroc, or 50 percent Iberian and 50 percent Duroc.

Jamón ibérico de cebo, which is affixed with a white label, comes from pigs that are 50 percent Iberian and 50 percent Duroc, and fed only grain.

Another type of Spanish ham, jamón serrano, doesn’t have a colored label at all. Serrano is commercially farmed and made from a variety of pigs — Duroc, Landrace, Large White, or Pietrain — whose hooves are white or light brown. The pigs are typically kept in close quarters and fed grain, so it’s much less expensive than ham made from pata negra stock. The meat has small strips of white fat that sit side-by-side with the pale-pink muscle. The curing time will still be indicated, however.

The cure

In addition to the pig’s breeding and diet, jamón is labeled with how long it’s been cured for. Curing is the process of preserving food by drawing out moisture through a combination of salt, air, and time; all jamón, from the least to the most expensive, undergoes curing, although each producer decides the best curing time for each type of jamón. For jamón made from white-footed pigs, the minimum duration is nine to 12 months, and is usually labeled “jamón bodega.” Jamón reserva cures for 12 to 15 months, and gran reserva requires 15 months or longer. Iberian pigs are cured for at least two years, meaning all ham from pata negra pigs falls into the gran reserva category, but the size of the leg is also a factor, so the smaller paleta (shoulder) might only need 24 months — whereas the back leg (for which the Spanish word is also “jamón”) could require 36 months or longer, depending on its weight. Most Spanish ham was once cured by mountain air in natural curing sheds, but now the process mostly happens in climate-controlled facilities.

How to buy it

You could order your jamón in a restaurant and side-step overwhelming ham-related decision-making, but there’s nothing more empowering than walking out of a market with treasure tucked under your arm. You’ll have to pick between a shoulder or back leg, a slicing method — and whether to get it sliced at all. Find jamón at specialists like Enrique Tomás, markets like La Boqueria, the corner butcher — or at a supermarket, where the quality is still high but prices are moderate. At Mercadona supermarket, for example, they’ll slice it right in front of you, or you can grab one of the already vacuum-sealed packs.

First, decide whether to buy jamón or paleta. Meat on the paleta is closer to the bone, which makes it redder and more intensely flavored; as a result, it’s usually sliced thinner. If you prefer softer flavors and don’t mind paying more, then the back leg is for you. Neither is better than the other, but paleta is less expensive.

Jamón ibérico, ready to be sliced.

If buying sliced, decide how you want it cut. In Spain, jamón is either sliced a máquina or a cuchillo — machine- or hand-carved, respectively. While there’s nothing inherently wrong with the more common machine-carved method, there’s a bias against it among aficionados, who feel cutting a cuchillo makes the jamón taste better. While the actual difference is negligible, slicing by hand is done with a cool-looking long, thin jamón knife, which does add some flair to the process.

It’s not feasible for most visitors, but if you do buy an entire bone-in leg, once at home, hang it, or rest it on a jamonero. Keep the cut side covered to protect it from drying out or developing mold, and once cut into the meat will last about a month. If you bought your jamón sliced, Enrique Tomás recommends finishing it in three months, but it will likely keep in the refrigerator for much longer. If keeping sliced ham in the refrigerator, take it out an hour before serving so it can reach peak scent and taste. Once at room temperature, you can easily peel the slices apart.

How to get it home

Sadly, health restrictions don’t allow jamón into the United States unless it’s commercially imported from a producer certified by the USDA. If you’re keen on smuggling some in, you can try the only tried-and-true method — though you didn’t hear it here. First, buy your sliced jamón vacuum-sealed, which should be an option anywhere you shop. Wrap it in several layers of tinfoil and press it in between the pages of a magazine. Then, swaddle the magazine in lightly perfumed clothing in your checked luggage. If smuggling jamón into the U.S. sounds like too much effort, just order it online from José Andrés’s Mercado Little Spain.

Ordering jamón from a restaurant is more straightforward; many menus offer only one variety, which usually arrives unadorned on a plain white plate. Even a no-name, unlabeled jamón can be pricey at a restaurant, however. And while it can be even more expensive at tourist-friendly places like El Nacional off Barcelona’s posh Passeig de Gràcia, you’ll at least get to see it sliced expertly off the bone right in front of you.

And if you aren’t sure you’re ready for the full-on taste of simply sliced jamón, try it with huevos rotos — broken-yolked eggs and jamón served over french fries — or blissful seasonal pèsols, which juxtaposes sweet peas in a savory broth adorned by tiny cubes of deep-red jamón.

A Walking Tour of Barceloneta

Originally published in Roads and Kingdoms

When I first arrived in Barcelona almost a decade ago, I loved spending hot summer afternoons at the beach, my haven in those early days, but it took me longer to explore the streets of its 18th-century barrio, Barceloneta. At first glance, it might appear that there’s not much to the neighborhood, but it’s worth taking the time to uncover its gems.

It remains a unique neighborhood in many ways, for the salt-of-the earth character of its residents, and—until only recently—for its resistance to the commercial makeover taking over the rest of the city center. Its narrow grid of streets is a contrast to the warren of the city’s Gothic quarter, with remarkably compact apartments and tiny balconies strung with laundry. Many also proudly fly the bright blue-and-yellow neighborhood flags symbolizing the collective pride of its residents and their revolt against the insidious tourism (and tourist apartments) slowly destroying their way of life. Yet, these small details are easy to miss, especially in the height of summer when the crowds swell and the sea beckons. The tensions may not be evident to foreign eyes, yet it’s important to note the ways in which the mass tourism plaguing the neighborhood is shaping locals’ lives.

If you want to learn more about Barceloneta’s rich history, the ideal place to begin your walk is at the Barceloneta metro stop. A quick backtrack up Pla de Palau (putting the port at your back) will bring you to the corner of Passeig d’Isabel II, where on the corner you’ll find the old farolas de Pla Palau, a set of lampposts thought to be one of Antoni Gaudí’s first commissioned works for the city of Barcelona. Taking two rights will bring you down Passeig d’Isabel II and onto Carrer de la Duana, which runs into another less obvious wonder, El Baluard del Migdia. What looks to be little more than an unlikely square of undeveloped space is actually a section of the old fortification wall, dating back to 1527, intended to protect the city from coastal invasions.

Head out Carrer de la Marquesa and make a left onto Pla de Palau. Once you pass the metro stop and cross the main thoroughfare, Carrer del Dr. Aiguader, you’ll be on Passeig de Joan de Borbó, which will take you in a straight shot to the beach. This leafy avenue is brimming with distractions, from the sandaled masses heading for summer sun, to the bars, restaurants, and street markets which line it. It’s worth taking note of the first building across the street. Housed in a former warehouse, the History Museum of Catalonia (Museu d’Historia de Catalunya) offers a wealth of insight into the city’s history, but perhaps its biggest draw is its rooftop terrace, which offers impressive views of the port. After night falls, it’s a great place to grab a drink and listen to the resident DJ. Another worthwhile stop is the nearby Casa de la Barceloneta (Carrer de Sant Carles, 6), a preserved house from 1761 which functions as a small museum offering fascinating collection of historical photographs showing the quaint origins of this neighborhood and its evolution. In it, you can see the original barracks built to house the La Ribera residents who were pushed out when the 70-acre Parc de la Ciutadella was built and which conveniently became home to many of the city’s fishermen.

If you’ve gotten an early start, then breakfast probably beckons. Scenesters seeking out an Insta-friendly feast would probably be happy perched on one of the terrace tables at Brunch and Cake by the Sea with an acai bowl and avocado toast. But in Barcelona, breakfast the traditional way happens about 10 a.m., and consists of a tallat (half coffee, half scalded milk)—cortado in Spanish—and a bocata, a sandwich usually consisting of a slice or two of jamón on a white baguette. Most of the bars sell them, including the excellent Forn Baluard, one of the best bakeries in the city, but the most atmospheric option is La Cova Fumada, located just beyond on Carrer del Baluard, situated on the leafy plaza Poeta Boscà. It’s best known for its bombetas—which means “little bombs” in Catalan–large, round croquettes made of meatballs coated in fluffy mashed potatoes and bread crumbs and then deep fried and served drizzled in mayonnaise and spicy tomato sauce. I’d been hearing about these legendary bites for years, but it wasn’t until I finally tried them that I understood what all the fuss was about. This is the kind of food that truly characterizes Barceloneta’s past: simple, stick-to-your-ribs fare designed to keep Barcelona’s hardworking fishermen well fed.

Weekends are a great time to visit Barceloneta, when families pony up to the local bars for vermouth hour at noon before tucking into a paella lunch a couple hours later. A great place to start is just across the plaza from La Cova Fumada at Bar Electricitat, enchanting for its no-frills atmosphere. Take a seat at one of the marble tables and ask for a vermut negre or a blanc—both are good. The vermouth hour usually includes a pre-lunch pica-pica: small plates of canned fish, anchovy-stuffed olives, spicy patatas bravas-–fried wedge potatoes slathered in fiery tomato sauce–and potato chips. If your stomach can handle it, soldier on to Bodega Fermín just next door and stock up on Basque-style pintxos (pinchos), slices of baguette topped with all manner of toppings, like Spanish tortilla, oily sardines, and roasted peppers filled with tuna salad. They also have a great local craft beer selection.

Some might argue that paella is the gastronomic heart and soul of the neighborhood. There’s a wealth of paella joints worthy of a visit if you can make time for a leisurely lunch. The classic places like Can Majó and Can Solé, which have been turning out the prized rice dish for decades—and in the case of Can Solé, since the turn of the century—are always packed. I prefer to make my way up past the port Xiringuito Escribà on Bogatell Beach, a 30-minute stroll from the  end of Passeig de Joan de Borbó. Although you’ll need a reservation, the outdoor restaurant offers a beachy vibe, and the paellas are exceptional. The pasta version, made with short noodles called fideuà and a mix of seafood, is a Catalan classic worth trying. Once you’re there, take advantage of the beach out front, a much less crowded stretch of sand the locals seek out to avoid the tourists further south.

If you’re not up for an all-day eating affair, you can stop into the Mercat de la Barceloneta back in Plaça Poeta Boscà and pick up all the fixings for a picnic lunch. With its graceful, modern roof, the market adds a sense of architectural richness to the antique heart of the neighborhood. Like other neighborhood markets, it stands as a vital center for the community, but it’s far less crowded than the city’s famous and ever-touristy Boqueria Market. Pick up slices of rich jamón and manchego cheese for entrepans (sandwiches), olives, canned fish, and fruit for a light lunch.

From there, you can take Baluard straight to the beach, but if you don’t mind delayed gratification, you can swing back on Baluard, hang a left on Carrer d’Escuder and a right on Carrer de Sant Miguel to arrive at the pleasant Plaça de la Barceloneta with its beautiful Parròquia de Sant Miquel del Port, where the castellers sometimes gather on holidays to build their human castles.

From the plaza, it’s an easy hop back over to Joan de Borbó where you can continue your walk to the sea, perhaps stopping at the portside food stalls to gather cured meats and cheeses for a seaside snack. Bypass most of the restaurants along the way, since they’re nefariously overpriced. One exception to this might be La Barra de Carles Abellán, which offers good bang for the buck, although certainly avoid Abellán’s eye-poppingly overpriced beach bar, La Guingueta. Near the end, the ever-packed Makamaka is a tempting spot, as much for its beachy vibe as for its Bloody Marys—a relatively recent import to Barcelona.  

Just past Makamaka, you’ll be at Plaça del Mar, the main plaza where Passeig de Sant Joan de Borbó meets the water. From this point, you have two options: head south towards the W Hotel or north along the beach towards Vila Olimpic and the marina. Heading south is ideal if you’re looking for an upscale meal or a luxe chill-out zone in a slightly less frenetic area of the beach, known as Platja de Sant Sebastià. It’s worth noting the walk there will bring you past a section of the beach beloved by nudists, often shamelessly bronzing themselves on foot. The Beach Garden at the base of the Club Natació Atlètic de Barcelona offers a rustic outdoor bar in the warmer months, while the base of the W is crowded with more high-end options. Gallito is a good option for a Mediterranean lunch, and the W Hotel’s own Salt Restaurant and Beach Club is a perfect place to sip on a drink with your toes in the sand.

Heading in the other direction from Plaça del Mar, you’ll stroll along the boardwalk which is packed in summer, passing paella restaurants, lively beach bars, elaborate sand sculptures, and a packed beach filled with eye-popping sights, from barely-there bikinis (generally only the bottom half) to shockingly small speedos. Not far up the beach you’ll find what appears to be a stack of boxes, but which is actually the statue of L’Estel Ferit (The Wounded Shooting Star) by German artist Rebecca Horn, built to commemorate the original wooden beach bars (xiringuitos) that were torn down in a bid to clean up the city for the 1992 Olympics. Eventually, past the Parc de la Barceloneta, you’ll come to the area of the beach home to the major nightclubs. It really comes alive at night, although taking the stairs down to the beach you’ll find the club terraces, which convert to restaurants during the day. A couple of them become afternoon chill-out zones, not bad if upscale cocktails and house music are your thing. The last stop on your tour is back on the upper deck. In the late afternoon light, Frank Gehry’s golden fish (Peix d’Or) looms luminous, a shining example of the new face of Barceloneta.

If the sun is sinking and hunger is gnawing, take a swing back through the back alleys to discover more of Barceloneta’s Catalan cuisine. Those seeking fresh seafood might consider popping into classic hotspots like Kaiku, La Bombeta, Montolio Can Maño, or Bar Bitácora, although it’s essential to know that many places in the neighborhood don’t take reservations (Bitácora being a rare exception), and people begin queuing for dinner well before opening hour at 8 p.m. Most wait times can run over an hour unless you’re one of the first in line. Meat lovers might prefer La Malandrina, which serves up local sausages like white or black botifarra, as well as premium entrecôte and creamy potatoes for under 15 euros.

I usually end my days in Barceloneta hankering for an ice cream. There are lots of shops lining the main avenue, but it’s worth the walk up past the Barceloneta metro stop, across Passeig d’Isabel II, and into the small, grassy plaza of Pla de Palau. You’ll find one of the city’s best gelaterias, Gocce di Latte, there. If you can bear the crowds, a stop into the city’s beloved La Xampanyeria, with its endless flow of cheap cava and bar bites, will put a sparkling glow on the day’s end.

3 Secret Swimming Holes in Catalunya

Originally published in Metropolitan

Slip away from the city's heat and crowded beaches and head into the Catalan countryside for a refreshing dip in these three gorgeous, remote swimming holes.

As the summer heat rages on, anyone who hasn’t yet left town is either dreaming about cooler climates or taking a cold shower. If it’s the latter, you can get your blast of icy exhilaration against a backdrop of natural beauty in secret swimming holes dotted across the region. Escape the summer heat and head into the hills to refresh and revitalize.

One of seven waterfalls in Torrent de la Cabana

1. 7 GORGS, Torrent de la Cabana

Situated in the foothills of the Pyrenees, north-west of Ripoll, Torrent de la Cabana and the 7 Gorgs (seven waterfalls) are a wonderful setting for a peaceful summer afternoon. Due to their close proximity to the mountains, the waterfalls almost never dry up, making the 7 Gorgs a paradise year-round. To protect this beautiful natural space, there is a €5 fee and a limit of 500 visitors per day. There is a circular 10-kilometer route that encompasses lush green forest and the seven waterfalls. Hikers can cool off in the natural pools as they go, although more extreme activities, such as canyoning, are prohibited due to sustainability initiatives. You can park a few kilometers away from the pools at la Font del Querol or park for free at the RENFE station, where you can begin the route on foot to the first waterfall, Gorg de la Cabana. 

Where to eat: Just a 10-minute drive from Torrent de la Cabana is the town of Ripoll, where you can find a number of restaurant options. If you’re willing to travel a bit further, Olot, the capital of the volcanic region of Garrotxa, has more upscale choices. Quinta Justa Restaurant offers "volcanic cuisine" with a variety of gourmet dishes created from produce grown in the area. Try its Olot potato or duck liver in apple sauce.

2. GORGS DE LA FEBRÓ, Tarragona

Set in the heart of the Prades Mountains, located about an hour northwest of Tarragona, the centerpiece of the Gorgs de La Febró is a large, aqua-blue pool that catches the clear runoff from a waterfall—the perfect spot for a refreshing swim. Set off from the town of Arbolí or from La Febró for a leisurely one-hour walk to the swimming hole, or park your car in La Mussara for the easiest, most accessible route. All paths follow the same red and white GR markers, and once you’re closer to the water you’ll see blue and yellow signs. 

Where to eat: If you make the trip to the tiny village of Siurana half an hour away, Restaurant Els Tallers is a good choice, but be sure to make a reservation beforehand. The restaurant is part of the rural hotel La Siuranella, where the staff also offer visits to the cellars and oil mills, wine tasting tours and climbing guides.

3. RIERA DE MERLÈS, Vic

Riera de Merlès, an-hour-and-a-half drive from Barcelona to the northwest of Vic, is another wild swimming hole, with layers of pools, waterfalls and rocky outcroppings to jump off. During summer people of all ages lay out on the sun-soaked rocks in between dips in the water. Shallower pools for kids can be found at La Quar, situated about two kilometers farther south in the area known as la Gola de les Heures. It’s not unusual to find newts and salamanders baking themselves on the rocks as well, while trout and catfish inhabit the waters below. 

Something's Cooking in Catalunya

Originally published in Metropolitan

As the cold weather draws us indoors, the kitchen once more becomes a place for rustling up seasonal comfort foods. Autumn and winter in Catalunya are filled with much-loved culinary traditions and, from freshly-picked mushrooms to hearty meat dishes, there’s plenty to warm the body and soul.

They say that Catalan cuisine is based on three main ingredients: wheat, wine and oil. The origins of this trinity are more likely to be biblical than local, but Catalan cuisine certainly embraces Mediterranean ingredients that were long cultivated by the Phoenicians and Romans. The region’s culinary traditions are nuanced and determined by its landscapes and the flavours they produce. It can be separated into coastal and mountain cuisine, as well as the interior cuisine that hails from the high country (Terra Alta). Many recipes originated in the towns and villages across the region, making it harder to find dishes that are native to multicultural cities like Barcelona.

With the top restaurant in the world, El Celler de Can Roca, in its backyard, and establishments like Tickets and Disfrutar wowing crowds with crafty gastronomic techniques, Catalunya is no stranger to haute cuisine, either. So whether it’s traditional recipes you’re after or a more contemporary take, the following workshops will fine-tune your techniques and teach you all you need to know about the cuisine of fair Catalunya.  

WINE AND DINE: Catacurian

Alicia Juanpere Artigas and Jonathan Perret understand how important viticulture is to Catalan gastronomy. For this reason, they have been offering cooking courses in the heart of Priorat wine country since 2003. Classes are kept small, each one celebrating a variety of regional dishes centred around key recipes, from classic paellas to more obscure recipes like clotxa, a peasant bread that hails from Tarragona.

Based in Gratallops, Catacurian offers all-inclusive single and multi-day tours that combine wine tastings at local vineyards with evening cooking classes and a stay at a local boutique hotel. Guests spend their days visiting local wine cellars, learning about the winemaking process and tasting wines from D.O. Montsant and D.O.Q. Priorat, the latter a region now in the forefront of Catalan winemaking. In the evenings, they participate in cooking classes of two to three hours followed by dinner.

Workshops from €150 per person.

GET MEDIEVAL: Domus Sent Soví

In the scenic village of Hostalric, just an hour north of Barcelona, is Domus Sent Soví, a gastronomic centre devoted to maintaining Catalunya’s culinary heritage through the teachings of The Book of Sent Soví (1324), an anonymous work said to be Catalunya’s first book about its cuisine. According to the prologue, it was written in Catalan by a man who was once chef to the King of England and was intended for squires stationed with lords and gentlemen to gain knowledge of the appropriate recipes to cook for their masters. Aside from the first printed book of Catalan cuisine, Llibre de Coc (1520) by Robert de Nola, it is considered the foundational text of Catalan cuisine, and many of its recipes are still referenced today. For example, picada and sofregit, which form the basis of many of today’s sauces, are included—albeit sans tomatoes, which didn’t enter the culinary register until after they were brought from the Americas in the 16th century.

Domus Sent Soví was created with the aim of protecting and promoting this key part of Catalunya’s gastronomic past, and uses the text as its guiding principle in teaching the essentials of medieval cookery. In contrast to its traditional subject, the centre itself is a large sleek space perched above the town’s picturesque valley. It houses a number of different classrooms, an auditorium and a small shop featuring cookbooks and local products.

The centre holds workshops for individuals and groups and, while their classes are primarily centred on medieval recipes, they also run regular classes devoted to seasonal cuisine. In the autumn and winter, for example, they often feature a class focused solely on wild mushrooms.

Workshops from €15

FRESH CATCH: Espai del Peix

In the heart of Palamós, on the docks where fishermen bring in the daily catch, stands the Espai del Peix, a centre which teaches visitors about Catalunya’s fishing industry. Developed in collaboration with the Centre d’Interpretació de la Pesca—the maritime museum dedicated to Mediterranean fish and the local fishing industry—the Espai has one large classroom that runs cooking workshops and showcooking events all focused, of course, on fish. Their philosophy is that cooking is a way for people to better understand the natural products of the region and teaching is a way to preserve ancestral recipes. Instructing clients on traditional mariner cooking—recipes of humble origin that were developed and handed down by local fisherman—the Espai also explains the plight of the fishing industry and showcases lesser-known fish as a way to support responsible consumerism. Visitors can combine their workshop or museum visit with a trip to the fish auction, where they can take in all the piscine action from a salon overhead. 

Fish Auction: €1.50

Espai, museum and tasting: €6

Workshops: €10 / €2.50 for minors under 10

HAUTE CUISINE: Hofmann

In addition to its culinary degrees, Hofmann teaches the tricks of the trade to anyone who wants to up their culinary game (think tempura fried egg yolk) through an impressive series of monographic courses that focus on many Catalan classics. They teach traditional fare by the book or spin it into haute cuisine. Learn straightforward techniques to make a fantastic coca bread or weave traditional canelons into something otherworldly with unusual ingredients like sea urchin, shiitake and miso. This is a chance to learn from top chefs like Carme Ruscalleda of Sant Pau and Hideki Matsuhisa of Koy Shunka. 

Monographic courses from €75

MOUNTAIN MENU: Lo Pallar del Coc

Nestled in the region of Pallars Sobirà in northwestern Catalunya, Lo Pallar del Coc is a country house run by Mariano and Silvia, which offers visitors a space to relax while learning the ingredients and recipes of mountain cuisine. Former chef and Hofmann teacher, Mariano gives classes tailored to guests’ preferences. All food is local, seasonal and organic whenever possible, and guests have the opportunity to combine a cooking workshop with a visit to local artesanal producers. Additionally, Silvia runs a wellness space with massage therapy and teaches handicraft workshops. The house is divided into apartments, which are available for rent, making it a perfect getaway for the travelling chef. 

Cooking workshops from €80

JUST DESSERTS:  Patisseria Escribà

For those of us who prefer to skip straight to dessert, consider a pastry course in Barcelona, home to one of the best pastry shops in the world, Patisseria Escribà. With a window display best known for its weighty chocolate sculptures, their 100-year-old shop on Gran Via is a sweet treasure trove and a well-known fixture among the locals who descend upon it each Easter to purchase their chocolate Monas. The corresponding school offers one-day workshops and trimestre courses dedicated to the foundations of pastry-making and decorating, as well as special masterclasses by Christian Escribà and Patricia Schmidt.

Monographic courses from €110

Espai Sucre

For a different kind of cutting edge, check out Espai Sucre, a unique space that functions as part-classroom, part-restaurant, and instructs in restaurant quality desserts. They have a range of one-day courses, including some suited to celiacs and lactose intolerants. In the restaurant you can try one of their dessert tasting menus with out-of-the-ordinary creations like coconut tapioca pudding with burnt egg yolk and orujo liquor.

The Ibiza Escape

Originally published in Metropolitan

If you’ve been to Ibiza, you know that it doesn’t take much time for the island to feel like an old friend. Although it has long been known for its party scene, Ibiza’s rustic charms run far and deep, and summer is the perfect time to discover all it has to offer. No matter what your vacation preferences, we’ve dug up the best and the brightest for a well-rounded summer exploration of the White Island.

THE WELLNESS ESCAPE 

Extreme Yoga

Yoga Weeks offers week-long Vinyasa-based yoga retreats in a villa above Sant Carles in the northeast of Ibiza. Its courses include three hours of yoga per day, guided meditation and breathing exercises, a wellness evaluation, healthy vegetarian fare and free time to explore the island and its beaches. Guests can relax by the pool, visit the local hippie market Las Dalias, or tour the island by car. For the more adventurous, it also runs yoga boat retreats, where you complete the same programme aboard a 50-foot yacht. The yacht anchors each morning so yoga classes can be held on different beaches, but sunsets seen from the deck as you sail around Ibiza and the pristine shores of Formentera might prove even more memorable.

Yoga land retreats start at €825 and yoga boat retreats are €1,290.  

Spa Daze

One of the finest names in luxury on the island is the Agroturismo Atzaró, which is located in the centre of the island, surrounded by all the beauty nature has to offer. Atzaró provides many wellness rituals, from saunas, a hammam (a Turkish bath), spa treatments and massages to fitness instruction, yoga and Pilates. There are also Balinese beds in the sand, a pool and a bubbles bar for further relaxation. It’s nice to combine a day at the spa with healthy eating at one of its terrace bars or La Veranda Restaurant, which offers light, seasonal cuisine.

THE FITNESS ESCAPE 

Roaming Ibiza

Toby Clarke founded Walking Ibiza with one simple goal in mind: to show visitors the unparalleled beauty of the island from a rarely seen perspective. He leads a number of different walks, from two-hour open community walks to private walks of various durations and levels of difficulty. He teaches eager foodies how to forage for the wild herbs used in Hierbas, the herb-based local liqueur. And he offers retreats that combine walking with yoga or mindfulness training. Enthusiasts can sign up for a four-day tour of the island, which combines walking, kayaking and biking, or the original 12-day circumnavigation walk, which initially began Toby’s adventure.  

Luxury Fitness Holiday

Those wanting a holiday with a fitness focus should look no further than 38 Degrees North, a holistic workout programme that addresses mind and body wellness. Its intensive approach means you’ll attend up to five small group classes of supportive and tailored instruction per day, and be held accountable for goal setting and tracking. However, you’ll also get to dine on delicious, nutritious food, which is more of an indulgence. Owners James and Claire offer week-long as well as long weekend courses designed to help you meet your fitness goals through diverse activities such as HIIT cardio sessions, kettle bell workouts, yoga, stand up paddle surfing and sunrise hikes. All courses include luxury accommodation at the five star ME Ibiza hotel.

SUSTAINABLE TOURISM ESCAPE 

Horseback riding

Most visitors to Ibiza view the island by car or by foot, but for a different experience consider a horse ride along the coast. There’s no better host for the experience than Ibiza Horse Valley, a nonprofit organisation devoted to saving abandoned and mistreated horses from a bleak future. Founded in 2010, the sanctuary is run by David and Monique, who work closely with the horses to help rehabilitate them. They do not resell or release the horses, but instead maintain them through donations. They invite guests aged 12 and up to get to know, care for and ride their horses in small groups. Riders can choose either a half-day trot in the mountains or a full-day ride along the beach.  

Organic Farm Workshops

Can Musón is a 16-acre organic farm filled to the brim with fruit trees, veggie gardens and local breeds of animals, which visitors can see for a small fee. It offers tours and tastings of the food made from the gardens, as well as workshops where guests can learn how to make ecological breads and flaó, the local fresh cheese dessert.  

Sustainable Living

At the end of a rough track near Sant Antonio lies Green Heart Ibiza, an off the grid farm begun in 1996 with the goal of teaching sustainable living. The house, Casita Verde, is open every Sunday, from 2pm to 7pm. For a €10 donation, visitors can take a two-hour tour of the centre, try natural body and skin care products made from aloe vera and carob (native to the island), indulge in a massage and sample vegetarian cooking. There’s a play area and entertainment for children, and Green Heart Ibiza also has a stand at the Forada market every Saturday.

THE FOODIE ESCAPE

What to Drink

Cultivated for its medicinal properties, Hierbas is made by locals from closely guarded secret recipes that have been passed down for generations. Luckily Drink Workshop, a programme run by the talented Phillip Thomas, teaches participants all the tricks to make this divine island drink in a fun, one-and-a-half hour workshop starting at €34. If you fancy yourself more as a distiller, you can check out his gin-making workshops as well.

Although they often get lost in the larger lexicon of Spanish vinos, Balearic wines have plenty to offer. While Ibiza has its own vineyards, it’s worth taking the 30-minute ferry ride to Formentera, a paradise of its own. Terra Moll is one of two vineyards on the island that take advantage of old vines and ideal weather to produce excellent boutique wines. It offers guided tours of the vineyards, with a sneak peek at the cellar, three wine tastings and traditional snacks from the Balearic Islands for €12, which serve as a nice respite from the summer sun. Reservations are essential.  

Where to Eat

With all there is to see and do on the island, it might better suit to pack a picnic and just go. El Picnic will make sure you have everything you need in your basket. You can choose from one of its pre-filled picnic baskets (€50), or select individual items from the menu and fill your own (minimum order €40). There are three pick up spots in top picnic locations around the island, or you can have your meal delivered right to you.

If you’ve been lucky enough to discover Anne Sijmonsbergen’s gorgeous cookbook Eivissa, you’ll be pleased to know she has finally opened her kitchen to the world. The much-anticipated El Portalón, located above the old port in a historic building in Ibiza Town, is a cosy restaurant that features pan-European cuisine. Think European brasserie heavy on the French and Italian accents, with dishes such as tortellini in butter sauce with creamy potato and sage mash—although the new Ibicencan cuisine for which Sijmonsbergen is best known appears too in dishes such as her superfood salad loaded with the island’s vibrant veggies.

5 Must-Try Ibicencan Specialities  

Borrida de Ratjada: Don’t be put off by the idea of ray stew. This is a humble dish, but a delicious one. Not unlike squid, ray is a bit of a blank slate, which soaks up the sofrito of garlic, onions and green peppers that it’s simmered in, before being dressed in a layer of crispy breadcrumbs. Try it at Sa Nansa.

Bullit de peix: As close as you’ll get to traditional fisherman’s stew, bullit de peix usually features whatever freshly caught fish and crab is on hand, along with potatoes, onions, saffron and white wine cooked in a beautiful fume. Try it at Tropicana Beach Club in Cala Jondal.

Greixonera: Made from day-old ensaimadas, greixonera is a bread pudding-style dessert in which the already tasty pastries are soaked overnight in a creamy concoction of eggs, milk, sugar, lemon, cinnamon and butter, and then baked. Try it at Es Torrent, right on the water.

Flaó: Flaó sounds like flan, but it’s more like cheesecake, made from fresh sheep’s and goat’s cheese blended with eggs, sugar, lemon, butter and anise seeds and baked like a quiche. Try it at Es Pi Verd in Sant Miquel de Balansat.

Hierbas: After dinner, indulge in a tipple of the bright yellow local anisette liqueur, distilled from the island’s wild herbs. It’s a little sharp on the tongue but excellent for digestion. Trust me, it’ll grow on you. Try it at Bar Anita in Sant Carles.

Written in the Stars

Originally published in Metropolitan

Anyone who has stood outside at night and peered up into the skies above Barcelona knows that there’s not much more to see than the gold-frosted hue of light pollution typical of metropolitan cities. This light pollution, known as skyglow, means we city dwellers see a fraction of the stars that are visible in the countryside, and even with the help of telescopes, they’re difficult or impossible to spot. 

Luckily, we live near rural landscapes that are perfect for viewing the stars unobstructed. Whether you choose to see them through a telescope at an observatory or with the naked eye through the flap of your tent, we have gathered a few of the best places to stargaze in Barcelona’s backyard.

Learn about the Stars

Observatori Fabra de Barcelona

Closest to Barcelona, the Fabra Observatory is a short drive into the Collserola hills. Established in 1904, it’s the fourth oldest functioning observatory in the world. The observatory’s scientists give tours of the facility (in Catalan or Spanish), which teach visitors about astronomy, meteorology and seismology, as well as the domestic uses of the building in the early 20th century. The guides also demonstrate how the observatory’s two modern telescopes work and show guests around the library and panoramic terrace. During the visit, you can freely access the observatory's gardens every Sunday and public holiday from 11:00 to 13:00. If you want to know more about the night sky after the tour, there are basic and advanced astronomy courses available.

For a less academic experience that’s just as memorable, during the summer months you can make a reservation for the Dining with the Stars dinner series that the observatory hosts. The dinners take place outdoors with a privileged view of Barcelona. After dinner, a 30-minute scientific talk is held, with a question and answer session at the end. You can also visit the museum, the modernist room, the telescope and the large dome room. From the dome you will be able observe elements of distant constellations, stars and much of the solar system, with the 1904 telescope—one of the largest and oldest in Europe still in operation.

Guided Day Tours

Hours: Sundays, 11:00

Price: €3, free for children under 14

Guided Night Tours & Observation

Hours: Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at sunset, October to June

Price: €15 adult on Friday, €25 adult on Saturday and Sunday, children up to 12 years pay half-price

Reservations required: Call 93 327 0121 or 697 864 262

Address: Camí de l'Observatori, s/n, 08035 Barcelona | fabra.cat

A Weekend in Cadaqués

Originaly published in Metropolitan.

Once a traditional fishing hub, Cadaqués is a thriving tourist destination, yet unlike many of its neighbours it retains all the charm of a small Mediterranean village. A tree-lined promenade runs along the small but well-kept harbour and boats bob peacefully in the bay. Tourists lose themselves in the narrow warren of old town streets, admiring the blue shutters and pink bougainvillea that contrast against white walls. The city may feel olde worlde, but it also embodies a bohemian vibe left over from its days as an artist colony, when it was home to the likes of Picasso, Man Ray, Bunuel, Lorca, and Dalí.  

Shopping

Wander the cobblestone streets and small squares, while taking in an array of trendy boutiques, galleries and studios around town. Visit Gemma Ridameya (Carrer Vigilant), which specialises in handcrafted metal and stone jewellery, or Calçats Roig Castañer (Plaça Frederic Rahola 3) for a pair of the famous Mediterranean espadrilles made by local designers. Mo Cadaqués (Plaça Doctor Pont 7) has women’s clothing and goods for the home, while Sa Botigueta (Avinguda Víctor Rahola 3) is a good place to find children’s toys. Brown Sugar (Plaça Art i Joia) is a handy place to stop off for a fresh juice, tasty salads or tapas.

Culture

The top tourist attraction in Cadaqués is Dalí’s Portlligat home, but if you can’t make it there, visit the Cadaqués Museum, which is dedicated to the artist’s work. It also has temporary exhibitions of works by other artists, such as Picasso, Pichot, and Niebla. Climb to the highest point in town and visit the 16th-century Esglesia de Santa Maria. Inside the late Gothic church you’ll find one of the oldest organs in Catalunya and a fresco by Dalí. Contemporary art lovers will also be impressed with the many galleries in town. Check out Galería Cadaqués - Huc Malla (Hort d’en Sanes 7) for an interesting range of works.

Nature

While there’s plenty to do in the town, the surrounding region is also a must-see. Head up to Cap de Creus, the rocky easternmost point of land just eight kilometres north of the town, for a beautiful, albeit blustery, view of the rugged but scenic landscape. This coastal national park is home to an impressive variety of birds, including eagles, falcons and kestrels, hundreds of plant species, and a great network of hiking trails. Walk among fragrant rosemary and sea lavender and take in the impressive views, or stop inside the Cala Nans lighthouse, dating from 1853, and visit Espai Cap de Creus, a science centre which explains the geology, flora and fauna of the region. If being on the water is more your thing, charter a one-hour sailing tour around the cape with Charter Sant Isidre.

Finding Foresta

"Number 16 is just a house. It sits at the end of a paved street, just across from a patch of gnarled vines, the only hint that I’ve arrived at a vineyard. In fact, I’ve toured the two-street town twice already searching for it. I’m here for the tour of Foresta, a small winery tucked away in the tiny village of L’Arboçar, which sits deep in the heart of Catalunya’s wine-making region, D.O. Penedès, midway between the mountains and the sea. Like the town it sits in, it’s a micro-operation indeed. A few French oak barrels and two small steel fermentation tanks are housed in the garage, and there’s a small artichoke patch around back. It’s not what you’d expect of a vineyard, but in a region of small production, family-owned vineyards, it’s not unusual either."

Read more at Avina.

Eating like a Tourist in Madrid

"I always love to go back to Madrid, always with the hopes of finding new and better places to eat. It’s a charming, grown up city, and I love to soak up its vibe and amble its quiet corridors, and while I have intentions to find the next best restaurant every trip, I never quite make it past the tapas crawl. I’ve been told by about ten different people that they’ve had the best tortilla of their entire life in Madrid, but of course they can never remember the name, only the lustrous details of the drippy oozing center of their slice, which is the way tortilla should be. I haven’t been so lucky."

Read more at Ataula

Valls: Home of the Calçot

"Valls is your typical Catalan town, a tiny poblet of 25,000 people, in the province of Tarragona. A small plaza sits in the shadow of the medieval church staked at its center. Its steeple rises high above the modest two story buildings that make up the town. The day we visited the flags were flying high, a bright dash of color against the cloud-mottled sky. The yellow and red bars of the Catalan flag sat solidly next to the city flag signifying the way the regional pride is part of the local identity there.Valls is considered the true home of the calçot, the Catalan spring onion that’s the source of great pride among locals, and we were there to experience their annual calçotada–a spring onion festival–that falls on the last weekend in January. It’s one of those wildly festive days where the entire town turns out to join the celebration."

Read more at Ataula

Cooking in Thailand

"There’s something quite magical about learning about another culture’s cuisine. I love reassembling my sense of taste–understanding that sour isn’t always lemon. Instead it’s the tart pucker of tamarind, the floral grace of a tropical lime. Salt isn’t just salt–a far cry indeed from the Morton salt girl I grew up with in 1970s Chicago–but the complex umami of fish sauce, sun-baked flavor that touches all points of the tongue. Foreign spice-forward cuisines are layered. Taste is built carefully, as though pyramidal, with certain spices that create the base upon which the other flavors are built. In learning to cook these cuisines, the why often remains a mystery, even as the what and how eventually begins to shimmer into shape. The process of eating is, in turn, a series of wondrous uncoverings."

Read more at Ataula

A Journey Through Wine Country: Priorat

"To use the term wine country in Catalunya is a bit misleading. It’s not like Sonoma Valley in California or even Mendoza in Argentina where are the wineries are clustered together an easy drive (or wine bus) from one another. Wine country covers the length of Catalunya, from its northernmost point near France all the way down to where it meets the province of Valencia, a journey which, if you drove it straight, would take 3 hours and 33 minutes without stopping. In total, it includes 11 denominations of origin (DOs)–including 1 DOQ–14 major grape varietals, 221 wineries, and 346,557 hectares of vines. It may not be France, but it’s still mind boggling."

Read more at Ataula 

Dead Sea Poems

"It was springtime when we descended to the Dead Sea. I wanted to take in the wide horizon with a breath, but I was shaken and caught by the geometries of light and landscape, by the myths of the soil retold to us by the passage of time, by the plain fields of an electric sea, unburdened and alive."

Read more at Vector

Down the river: The Delta de l’Ebre

"Just an hour and a half south of Barcelona, the landscape shifts into something altogether different. Gentle tree-covered mountains rise up along the horizon and the dry Mediterranean scrub leading down to the sea suddenly gives way to a wide, flat landscape of pure unadulterated green—the delta of the river Ebre. It is a breathtaking sight and one certainly worth the short trip to reach it. This large, flat region is made up mostly of rice plants, doing their gentle dance in the breeze against a backdrop of the Serra de Montsià mountains. Its unique landscape—from wide sandy beaches to the tranquil river and quiet harbours—makes it a welcome weekend getaway spot for nature enthusiasts and families alike."

Read more at Metropolitan

Life in a bubble: Producing Catalunya's cava

"The best way to learn about cava is to head down to cava country and visit a cellar or two, where you can learn how cava is created and enjoy a tasting session. Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, considered the birthplace of cava, is a great place to start. There are a number of excellent cellars there, including the world-renowned Freixenet and Codorníu. While February can be brisk and the vines barren, it is also calçot season, and there is no better place to enjoy this local and well-loved onion than in the countryside restaurants of Penedès. Early spring brings rain, but with it vines covered in an explosion of downy white blossoms, signaling a new start and a new harvest ahead."

Read more at Metropolitan

The Dalí Triangle

"The wind-tossed coast and ever-shifting light of this part of the Catalan coastline are familiar protagonists in the paintings of Dalí, Chagall, and Picasso. The artists’ studies of the landscape reveal the powerful influence of place in their work, and none was more connected to the Costa Brava than Surrealist Salvador Dalí. Those who want to know his work intimately can journey to what is known as the Dalí triangle, in reference to the three iconic locations on Catalunya’s Costa Brava where Dalí lived and worked: Figueres, Púbol, and Portlligat."

Read more at Metropolitan

Day Trip to Vic

"Culture, history and a special affinity for sausages, the small Catalan city of Vic makes for an excellent day trip from Barcelona by train or car, or a weekend visit to really capture the atmosphere. Sometimes written as Vich, it is the capital of Osona, a landlocked comarca (county) in central Catalunya, and is located on the banks of the river Mèder almost equidistant (approximately 70 kilometres or so) from Girona and Barcelona. A long and storied history has put Vic on the map, but it remains there, among other reasons, because of its long and fervent political history and the mythical status of its sausage. Not many other cities in the world can hang their hat on that."

Read more at Metropolitan

Island Life: Balearics in the City

"Besides the beaches, another major attraction of the islands is the food. While Balearic restaurants may be in short supply here, there are a few establishments dotted around the city where islanders can get their fix. Na Mindona is one such place. The Na is short for ‘ca na’, meaning ‘en casa’ in Mallorquín, and that’s exactly how it feels—like a small slice of home. Tucked away in the Raval, Na Mindona is a favourite of Barcelona’s Mallorcan residents, who swear by the authenticity of the market-fresh dishes, such as tumbet (a ratatouille-like dish that comprises layers of aubergine, courgette and potato in a rich tomato sauce) and frit mallorquí (a hash of fried lamb, potatoes and onions).  

Read more at Metropolitan